Wednesday, March 12, 2003

Food
The fact that the House cafeteria introduced "freedom fries" yesterday is too monumentally stupid to merit comment. How I long for the days when our duly elected douchebags bothered to pretend that they had something important to do.

The Chron's food section is entirely devoted to lipids today, and if you bother to read it, it will say, I can only imagine, that every single "nutritionist" is full of shit. Knowing the Chron, they'll probably fuck it up.

Someone named Mike Steinberger mocked the Olympian pronouncecments occasioned by Loiseau's suicide in Slate

It's not a little ironic that Bocuse has been doing most of the finger-pointing during the past week, since no one has prospered more than he from Michelin's imprimatur. Initially awarded three stars in 1965, he was the first chef to use the guide's stamp of approval as a ticket to universal celebrity, becoming a globe-trotting icon with lucrative consulting and endorsement deals.
Fair enough. But then he goes on, with unwitting irony, to compare Michelin to the Olympics. It's important to have standards, I guess, but the systematic fetishization of the absurd extravagances of haute cuisine is possibly even worse than Zagat's relentless assault on the lowest common denominator.

via Sauté Wednesday, which also has a nice appreciation of Steingarten's latest.

Speaking of which, the Times fawns over Hélène Darroze, who just got her second star, for serving carrots with confit. Incroyable!

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