Wednesday, January 21, 2004

Wed. Food
In the Chron, an article on the allegedly new ecumenical Mediterrannean somehow fails to quote SF's own Paula Wolfert (or refer to a certain superb Turkish restaurant -- while we're quibbling, can someone explain to me how "persia" is remotely mediterrannean?); Fancy Food Show roundup; and the excellent news that Chez Panisse chef Christopher Lee is turning the execrable Ginger Island into something called Eccolo. I'm so there.

In LA, Russ Parsons loves "off-brand" tartufi, and Emily Green breaks it down

It seems like a ghastly conspiracy. Yet factory farming isn't someone else's fault. It's not only of our making, but it also made us. More than any other factor, cheap food accounts for American prosperity. We spend less of our annual incomes on food than any other nation. Our first case of mad cow disease isn't the result of some evil plot. It's the price of our way of life and it may be telling us that it's time to change.
In NY, more mastery of the obvious:

The real question should be, Is there such a thing as bad bacon?

Rob Hurlbut, the president of Niman Ranch, said it best: "Bacon should be listed as an aphrodisiac."

Vegas comes to the area formerly known as Columbus Circle; and Amanda Hesser is cruelly subjected to $10 wines.


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