Wednesday, March 03, 2004

food

The LA Times got into the mall of NY before the Per Se fire; David Shaw talks to Christian Etienne, suitably impressed by the Santa Monica farmer's market; Russ Parsons reviews fungi-porn.

Sometimes, you just have to hate Johnny Apple and his limitless expense account:

For some reason I had never ordered eel (locally known as bisato) on any of my 15 or 20 visits to Venice, even though it is a local favorite, eaten by tradition on Christmas Eve.
Particularly when he gets confused:
We started with baccalà mantecato, a rich, milky, whipped fish pur´┐Że made not with salt cod, as elsewhere in Italy, but with the dried cod preferred by Venetians.
[In fact made with both salt cod (baccalà) and dried cod (stoccafisso) throughout northern Italy]

But whether it's because the sun's still out or because Sauté Wednesday implanted Coltrane in my brain, I'm still in a fine mood, and the double-headed endive/chicory action (NYT/Chron) reminds me of one of my favorite things:

frisée lardons
(a/k/a salade lyonnais, or bacon and egg salad)

shred and wash a large head of frisée*
cut four slices of bacon into 1/2" squares and fry slowly until very crisp**
make a vinaigrette however you like it, but replace half your olive oil with warm bacon fat***
while you toss the frisée in the warm vinaigrette, poach two eggs
serve with eggs and your bacon bits (lardons) on top; croutons if you want them.

This is particularly good for dinner if you eat a half-dozen oysters while you're making it.

*you can use other greens, but this is really built for frisée
**adjust the amount of bacon by how thick it is, how much frisée you have and how hungry and/or fat you are. Normal french lardons are smaller than this. Also the French normally use unsmoked pork belly but wouldn't you rather have bacon?
***the traditional procedure would be to drain about half the fat (and your lardons) from the pan, throw in some minced shallots for a minute, then deglaze quickly with red wine vinegar.

Props to Jane, for making this for me many years ago.

Also, Measure H passed.

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