Wednesday, March 24, 2004


This constant vacationing is so tiring. Every time I finally become euthanized to the tedium of daily life, I have to fly somewhere exciting. I'm a man, dammit, not a machine. Anyway, you will have to amuse yourself elsewhere for the next week. Why not enjoy the many fine links immediately to your right?

I leave you with my deservedly popular weekly round up of our nation's (readable) food sections:

Artichokes are in season, which explains why both Janet Fletcher [SF] and Russ Parsons [LA] -- who appears to think he invented the literally prehistoric technique of cooking à la greque -- devote an article to them today. Also in the LA Times, David Shaw goes on interminably about wineglasses that you can't afford (he does reveal the interesting fact that Riedel and Speigelau are owned by the same company); and Emily Green writes rather prosaically about the glories of the egg.

NY: Amanda Hesser reviews, really rather pathetically, Spice Market -- meatpacking district! so primitive; which occasions this perhaps not entirely fair ripping of a new one by eurotrash. Rather, I direct your, and the Times's editorial staff's attention to Kay Rentchler's article on [the excellent] Anson Mills, which is datelined Columbia, S.C., but "interviews" [i.e., procures one quote from] chefs in DC, Chicago and Cambridge. And, furthermore, so obvs.: "'Food is central to the culture of the South,' he said." See, because they had plantations or something, and you didn't. So your food sucks.

Sauté Wed. has yet to be updated, but you know it will. Finally, keep an eye on the cheese diaries for exciting developments in raw milk époisses.


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