Wednesday, May 12, 2004

wed. food

The Chron's article on the prickleback features the must-read story of the Sicilian eel-man, and this important fennel foraging tip:
Select fennel away from automobile fumes and the path of dogs.
Also, local Beard award winners [Full list here].

NY: Entertaining interview with Mimi Sheraton closes with an unsubtle topical passage:

"Well, whether they're right or not, which means they agree with me," she began wryly, "food writers in general devote too much space to chefs' philosophies. They're not Picasso, after all � this is supper. So I don't want to hear about a chef's intentions," she said, savoring the last bite of her palmier. "Call me when it's good."
Amanda, unperturbed, turns in a workmanlike review of a midtown Mexican [her Mr. Latte reading the other day was apparently uneventful]. New Yorkers will also want to see New York on the NYC offal invasion, and today is City Harvest's skip lunch fight hunger day (I know we're a little late on this one, but you can just skip dinner instead).

LA: the fleecing menu; Russ Parsons explains wild salmon (with sidebar on fisherman's marketing coops); David Shaw mocks wine writers; for the record, my favorite abuses of the genre were a red Hermitage "redolent of pencil shavings, wet underbrush, and hung meat," later called an "umami bomb," and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape that had something to do with a redhead naked on a tractor. But see Florida Jim's excellent counterpoint on eGullet.

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