Wednesday, May 19, 2004

wed. food

In LA, Russ Parsons gets around to Fergus Henderson -- he convinced me, at least, to try the tails; Barbara Hansen helpfully explains what to do with nopales; David Shaw ponders the futility of an American Michelin.

SF: The Chron goes shopping at the alleged elitist Ferry Plaza Market [not the farmer's market]; reports on the salmon shortage; and, oddly, also has a nopales story.

Mastering the obvious in NY: Bittman realizes vegetarian food can be good; Hesser quotes Wylie Dufresne: "I don't believe that if you put a tablecloth on the table and you put on a jacket and a tie, the food is going to taste better"; and Prial realizes that wine costs too much:

In some ways, the high cost of wine is a problem we have made for ourselves: we take wine too seriously. We are hung up on vintages, appellations, grape varieties and, in the upper reaches of wine fanaticism, the specific vineyards from which the grapes were gathered. There is a place for all this intensity; serious wine enthusiasts have every right to take their wines seriously. But for everyday drinking it is unnecessary.
None of these are exactly earth-shattering, but it is nice to see them in the Times. Also, Johnny Apple goes through the asparagus motions in Germany (no mention of our own Hadley grass.

Other things: The excellent Clotilde Dusoulier, of Chocolate and Zucchini, goes to Madrid -- it is always interesting to watch the French eat other cuisines, and her descriptions will make you very, very hungry; Do you know what it's made of? Carbs. And do you know what it tasted like? Delicious. I just read the not-so-new-anymore Steingarten [the Irving Penn/Nicole Kidman issue], and discovered that he is a judge on a new, American, Iron Chef, which, he claims, doesn't suck. I know this happened a month ago, but give me a break, I was out of the country. Anyway, you better TiVo it. This time, only a week too late: check out Andrea Strong's buzz on the weird Beard awards.


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