Wednesday, June 02, 2004

wed. food

NY: Amanda, perhaps wisely, cops out of her final review:
Masa is my last review as the interim restaurant critic. After several visits, my impressions are firm: four stars when dining at the sushi bar and three stars at the tables. If forced, I could settle on one, but I would rather not. Instead, I will look forward to reading, in the future, what The Times's new permanent critic, Frank Bruni, thinks of it.
David Karp writes with his customary excellence on rhubarb; Julia Moskin explain the basics of freezing; if, for some reason, you are still confused about Spanish wine, Frank Prial can help; Finally, a rather obvious explanation of how to shop, featuring Savoy's Peter Hoffman:
This kind of spontaneous recipe creation, impressive as it may seem, is not limited to restaurant chefs, Mr. Hoffman swears. In most cultures cooks prepare dishes from whatever is available on the farm and in the pantry. And that is Mr. Hoffman's secret, too: he scours the market for local seasonal ingredients, and pairs them with staples in his larder.
LA: Corie Brown reprises the USDA's organic standards fuckup; Leslie Brenner reviews two new Roman cookbooks.

SF: Janet Fletcher explains knife basics -- don't miss the accompanying knife porn, but ignore the end and refer to this excellent egullet course on sharpening.

Elsewhere, Katherine Tallmadge attempts to explain sat. fat in the Post; Molly O'Neill is doing a cookbook for Second Harvest; wine is food; feeling crazy? Make a galantine with Peter Hertzmann (it only takes 5 days); surely, you're dying to know how the goat turned out.

Finally, if you are not familiar with Robb Walsh's books, you need to buy some. Legends of Texas Barbecue is one of the best American cookbooks ever written, and his new Tex-Mex Cookbook, based on a well-researched series of articles he wrote for the Houston Press, looks to be more of the same.


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