Wednesday, June 16, 2004

wed. food

Last night I opened a pinot grigio from one of the few California wineries that makes good wine at a good price point, and subjected myself to something truly horrible. In fact, it tasted exactly like a pineapple butterscotch sundae, which is Jordan Mackay's apt description of California chardonnay. His LA Times article attempts to demonstrate that some people are making better chards., but after tasting what they did to pinot grigio, I'm not holding my breath. Speaking of wine, Asimov writes the usual "sounds crazy"/"tastes great" article on biodynamic wine [perhaps we can get those Miller Lite ladies involved somehow?].

Getting grumpiness out of the way: either Hoffman or Bowen is very confused if they think you make romesco with anchos (consider yourself lucky I missed last week's nixtamal typo); I like Bruni so far, but "the roe less taken" is, to quote the Simpsons, a fridge too far; we have plural problems in Cali., with the Chron. writing of "a panini" and "millenniums" in LA -- the latter, though, from an excellent Russ Parsons article on farmed abalone; there seems to be some kind of weird seasonal conspiracy going on, because the Chron. published Janet Fletcher's Royal Blenheim story this week, when their short season is about to end (cf. 3 weeks ago).

I have no complaints about Alex Witchel's DiPalo's story [NYT] or David Shaw's observations on the demise of the "fine dining experience" [LAT].But the best thing I have read this week is Bruce Cole's article on sous vide. Maybe it's too challenging for the paper, but how is it that none of our nation's many fine food magazines are paying him for this?

more in a bit.


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