Wednesday, June 23, 2004

wed. food

In the Times, Johnny Apple talks to the River Café's Rogers & Gray, whose first book is among the most transformative I have ever read.

Also, Marian Burros's much-anticipated N.E. cheese article; wild Yukon river salmon [but this year's Cali. Kings are pretty good too]; Westchester cocineras; and in yet another Fergus Henderson piece, from the magazine, Jonathan Reynolds gets a typically excellent quote:

Marrow on toast isn't for everyone, and for breakfast I can't imagine it's for anyone.... As Lewis wields a knife over a bunch of Italian parsley, Henderson explains: "You want to discipline the parsley with three or four chops, not whip it into submission. This business of dicing vegetables into little bits beats the spirit out of them. If the Great Chef in the Sky meant for us to chop the veg into tiny cubes, he would have made them differently. Now where are your capers?"
Contains a recipe for the famous Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad.

The LA Times reviews ice cream makers; Regina Schrambling cooks en papillote (perhaps an interesting counterpoint to sous vide for a theme dinner...); community garden cooking.

From the Chron comes the reassuring news that there are people far more obsessive than I; although the roasters here (with a few exceptions) are so incompetent that this is more a sign of moral laxity on my part.

On the interweb, The French Laundry is apparently open again and still good; Josh Friedland makes guanciale at home; Ukrainians love chocolate coated pork fat [via Josh's excellent site];

...after doing the requisite studies and surveys, we wrapped a structural core of solidified vodka and tonic water in a noncontinuous cladding of absinthe-tempered hard-crack sugar and bound it together with a spiriform-theme element of lime peel. And so we unveil: the Frank Gehry cocktail.

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