Wednesday, July 14, 2004

bastille day

Sorry, I have been absorbing a lot of information today. Like trying to get the c-span video of the House mad cow hearing. And successfully watching Glenn Danzig get his ass kicked. So best. Anyway, on to the food:

The LA Times rides Bastille Day hard, starting with an interesting article on LA's early "french" (i.e., francophone Basque) history. Apertifs are now officially a trend, but I'd advise you to consider the offerings of France's southern neighbors. And I'm afraid that Alain Giraud's pan bagnat look a bit too LA-ified in the picture: there is a suspicious absence of oozing oil. The alouettes sans tête are genius though; I can't believe no one's ever done it before. Finally, David Shaw reports on excessively expensive expat wine from from Paso Robles. [Not really finally: there is apparently more, but it's hidden behind the popular "calendar live" firewall.]

The best thing in the papers today is the Chron's story on awesome 14-year-old cook Elón Graham. I'm not saying I'd eat the pork chops, but it won't take long for Berkeley High to beat the Safeway out of him. Also in the Chron Olivia Wu tackles nam prik.

In NY, Marian Burros reports soaring demand for wild salmon, and problems for the aquaculture industry. Best case scenario is this forces the farmers to come up with better ways to farm. Perhaps consumers will wonder why they're paying $15/lb. for wild Alaskan King (just a guess -- who knows what they're paying in NY?) when fishermen see only $2 of that. Speaking of fish, for some reason, Peter Hoffman prefers oil-packed anchovies.

God, I hope this becomes a trend: the reasonable markup. Nancy Harmon Jenkins visits Ciccio Sultano in Sicily. Bruni lays the smackdown on V -- even Gawker gets in on the action.

In the Washington Post, Julia Watson discovers the caja China -- six months after Saveur, Vogue and the Times -- and lamely refuses to link to the blog that gave her the idea. You know she's going to be on the ball when she admits to googling mojitos in December 2003. I guess, on the analogy of Wonkette, we'll have to call it trendy-for-DC.

Regina Schrambling reviews a Carême bio; and Adam Platt reviews Sirio's -- can the hostess confessions be a coincidence? Elsewhere, the former points out some small problems with the latter (currently the fourth item).

Spotted at tfs: Big Boy breeder Oved Shifriss dies at 89; not to be forgotten email list [via Sauté Wed.]. More later.


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