Wednesday, July 21, 2004

food

"New England clams are complicated": Johnny Apple nearly makes me nostalgic for my youth in Boston. At least his suggestions are better than Giuliani's. Excellent article by Julia Moskin starts with the Bronx Terminal Market and ends with a NYC Food Policy Council. (There are problems with Berkeley topography in one companion article on Ferry Plaza, and problems with math in another on the Senior Farmers' Market Nutrition Program in New Orleans). As long as we're being picky, someone needs to tell Nigella (and/or the Eds.) that spatchcock is a word in America too. These problems pale in comparison to the revolting (and nonsensical) sentence with which Kay Rentschler compounds her fruit-grilling error: "Yet its sinewy viscosity flowed with the affection of an old friend." She's talking about condensed milk. We end on a happy note, when Bruni ventures across the East River to bestow a star on a new place run by as-seen-on-TV Laurent Saillard & wife, where the following exchange occurred:

When a server asked if I wanted yet another glass, I sheepishly muttered, "I'm afraid I do."

"Don't be afraid," she said, her French accent and her sure delivery making the command sound oracular.
Indeed.

Russ Parsons on heirloom tomatoes:

But all of this raises the question of whether a tomato grown, harvested and shipped this way is that much of an improvement over the standard supermarket varieties.
In fact, most heirlooms, like most other tomatoes, are watery and flavorless. A good grower's beefsteak will kick the average heirloom's ass. Pretty colors do not necessarily equal flavor. If you want to know more, check out "Twelve ways of looking at tomatoes" in Bertolli's Cooking by Hand. Napoletana in LA: "I want to be the one who wakes� California people� from the bad dream of pizza they have on their mind." Astonishingly, you can now get half-decent pizza in Berkeley: the Express reviews some of the options. Can bagels be far behind? (answer: yes).

Hot Marcella on Marcella action [via Sauté Wed.];

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