everyone else appears to be on vacation edition
LA: Anya von Bremzen reports on a crazy new trend from Spain, called tapas. Apparently, they are served with sherry. Seriously people, if you're not on the Spanish bandwagon yet, I don't know what your problem is. [Cf. the Independent on Priorat]. Also: rich and stupid people enjoy chocolate fountains; breeders may be interested in Cindy Dorn's cooking with daughter piece.
SF: The seafood sommelier may seem precious, but you should read this if you're serious about cooking fish; Marlena Spieler cooks and eats in Ionia (the Olympics, of course; cf. NYT's Saveur-esque greek wine feature); tourists will want to read the rundown of North Beach restaurants.
NY: The minimalist reports on an interesting Trio-spinoff vegetarian restaurant in Chicago; Florence Fabricant is on crack if she thinks Bill Telepan invented the idea of cooking pappa al pomodoro for an hour (google is no help here, but I assure you the tomatoes are supposed to be well-cooked) -- and don't miss Peter Hertzmann's compendium of french tomato recipes; a beer frame of White Castle history.
Elsewhere: EU protected geographical indication for the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie? (plus bonus Cornish pasties intrique) -- cf. Time on the Country of Origin labelling debacle; Gen Tso returns to Wenjialong [last 2 via Sauté Wed.]; I'm late to the party as usual, but gothamist food looks pretty good for you New Yorkers; Surprise! Peach farmers are getting the shaft (perhaps more of them should be listening to Art Lange; I doubt the USDA's new varieties will help).
addenda: Robert Wolke examines the thermodynamics of pig roasting in the Post, and today's Niman Ranch newsletter plugs both the caja china and Fergus Henderson (they're happy to sell you pig tails); a brief history of chicken and waffles; where in the world is Bob Cannard? [via ciao Samin].