Wednesday, March 02, 2005

fud

Stalkers notwithstanding, the Times is to be commended for adopting a faux man-in-the-streets pose this week, focussing on takeout, (complete with token outer borough action!). Nothing to mock for us out-of-towners this week (well, I'm sure there is, but then I'd have to read it). On the heels of yesterday's breathless what rock star chefs really eat [!!!!] article, it's practically Food Network over there. At least the copydesk appears to have figured out that potpie is one word: Regina's heroic efforts were not in vain.

Today's LA Times is exceptionally good: a short history of SoCal fusion in the form of Russ Parsons's profile of Kazuto Matsusaka; David Shaw breaks down the new Michelin; Corie Brown's autopsy of the French wine market is scaring me (in further Sideways fallout, the unwashed have figured out that Merlot is uncool, but I doubt this will have much effect on Pommery prices; also, Mexican wine trickles down to USAT); Charles Perry discovers the origins of chicken and waffles in Mildred Pierce the novel (it's not in the movie [or the song, come to think of it]); chicken and waffle background from the Express, and, via google, in Boston and Pennsylvania Dutch country.

Janet Fletcher -- who appears to know more French than anyone at the Times -- explains frisee in the Chron, with recipes; Wolke's fats for dummies; more on the Mexican GM law; Peter Hertzmann attacks chaud-froid with his customary obsessiveness; early returns from the Modern.

Eventually, I will get around to writing a little more about foie gras, but it will not add much to the excellent article Derrick wrote for the latest Art of Eating. Go. Buy it. And speaking of old media, John Thorne has finally updated his site, though it doesn't seem to make any more sense than it used to. Now, Thorne has written some of the best things about food I have ever read, but his reflexive contrariness quickly grates. His Saveur review of On Food and Cooking wasn't even coherent, and it had the unfortunate savor of (poorly excecuted) self-aggrandizement. Why?

Props to Sauté Wednesday, as usual, for links.

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