In his eagerness to piss off his readers, David Shaw appears to have conflated the deliciousness of the Neapolitan with that of the "Neapolitan" (i.e., east coast pizza). Not the same thing at all, why is why he doesn't know where to put his pepperoni. At least he doesn't indulge in the inexcusable boosterism of Chron's contribution to the subject.
Oh yeah: Bruni observed, digested, and savaged. For what it's worth, I thought the Chicago article was pretty good (notwithstanding the prose), and I love the emergency flight to Barcelona to avoid Adrià faux pas. Thanks Punch!