Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Only in New York: at this point, the Times should just publish a weekly Johnny Apple section. This week he's expensing Bangkok and Shanghai.

Only in LA: our cousins down south are freaking out about their new Silverton/Batali feedlot restaurant complex:

And then there is the name: Trattoria del Latte, Enoteca del Latte and Pizzeria del Latte. The milk obsession is making some prospective investors a little nervous. What if the public is lactose-intolerant?

But surely they will just think it's a Starbucks?

And Russ Parsons gets the last word, on "Kobe" beef:

Both a waitress at Sterling Steak House and Sterling's chef Andrew Pastore claimed their porterhouse was the real thing, imported straight from Japan. When told that if this was true, it was completely illegal. Pastore adopted a Brooklyn wise-guy stance: "I let my suppliers worry about that."

(The next day his publicist clarified that what Pastore really meant was that the meat came from Japanese cows that had been brought to the U.S. to be slaughtered -- which would also be illegal.)


Anonymous DoubleMan said...

Batali is well on his way to following in the footsteps of greats like Todd English (and Jean-Georges V. to a lesser but much more expensive degree): too many restaurants opened too quickly leading to abysmal food (health code violations also) and near-empty restaurants. They will still get the "Tavern on the Green is the greatest" suburban set that will whisper about how famous the chef is---"I wonder if he's cooking tonight."

Once a person, in any industry, becomes a brand, it's almost always the beginning of the end. The bright side is that it's entertaining, as it is very public and usually very ugly.

BTW, I just finished Kermit Lynch's first book; thanks for the recommendation. It's a great primer on French wines beyond Burgundy and Bordeaux, and the best book on wine I’ve read, and I’ve read quite a few. I wrote my undergrad thesis on the U.S. wine industry during Prohibition. Unfortunately, most authors (Charles Sullivan, Paul Lukacs, and Kevin Zraly) cover wine and its history as if the reader is retarded.

I can't understand why Lynch’s publisher didn't squeeze in an appellation map, maybe that's lazy of me, but it would be helpful to put the geography together.

Thu Oct 13, 12:42:00 AM GMT  
Blogger mmw said...

Good point about the map. To be fair to Zraly & co., they are writing for retarded people.

Thu Oct 13, 07:11:00 PM GMT  
Anonymous kk said...

Apple maintains the pretentious douchebaggery for which the Times is so noted: "But with the help of a remarkably heterogeneous group of friends, including taxi drivers and farmers as well as intellectuals..." Almost as good as the girl who told me "for someone who seems remarkably intelligent, you've had an awful lot of blue collar jobs."

Fri Oct 14, 04:53:00 PM GMT  

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